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To the Beaches of Normandy
A WorldWeb.com feature travel article.
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To the Beaches of Normandy
from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide

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What Remains of the War at the Beaches of Normandy 1

The Beaches of Normandy, perhaps one of the most reverent historical sites of the 20th century, was permanently etched into history on June 6, 1944. It was on this day that a military landing party, larger than any the world had ever seen, sieged the northwest coast of France and brought an end to the Second World War. Though the day ushered in a new era of peace, it was not without a hefty price. The triumphs and defeats of that infamous battle will never be forgotten and the Beaches of Normandy will always stand as a stark reminder.

To this day, the Normandy region carries with it an extensive weight of monuments, museums and memorials. Some are dedicated to keeping alive the memories those who fought and of those who fell. Others provide education and awareness about the effects of war, emphasizing a need to prevent it from happening again. These intimations are open for all to see and are a key part of any trip to the area.

Normandy, however, is more than war memorials and history. The area combines a 579-km (360-mi) coastline and a verdant interior of lush farmland with bustling market towns and long, sandy beaches. It truly is a quintessential example of rural France and a lucrative gem in the country's treasury of a travel.

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Three Soldiers of Juno Beach 2

LAY OF THE LAND

The continental territory of Normandy is set along the south shores of the English Channel, about 130 km (81 mi) northwest of Paris. It reaches from Dieppe in the east to Cherbourg in the west and encompasses the cities of Rouen, Le Havre, Caen, Bayeux, Avranches and Evreux.

The region's battered shores are comprised of granite cliffs in the west, limestone cliffs in the east and long stretches of beach in the centre. Inland, the area is used mainly for agriculture and industry. Accordingly, the land is covered by sprawling pastures, and dotted by villages and cities.

Weather
A real Maritime climate can be felt in Normandy. Winters are generally mild, making frost and snow uncommon. During the summer, temperatures can rise to a high of 16ºC (61°F). Rain can occur at all times of the year with a slightly increased probability in the winter months.

THE APPROACH

The whole region is easily accessible by train. Direct connections from Paris enter all of the main cities in the area, providing visitors with quick and easy transportation.

Charles de Gaulle Airport—the largest airport serving Paris and the second busiest passenger airport in Europe—is only two hours drive from Normandy. From there, numerous transport links by road and rail are available.

Brittany Ferries transverse the English Channel on a regular basis, providing an approach to the French shores similar to what soldiers experienced on D-Day. This nautical journey can take between two and six hours and lands at Caen and Cherbourg.


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Long Range Gun at Omaha Beach 3
FIVE BEACHES, FIVE POINTS OF ATTACK

Normandy's dramatically evocative landing beaches attract millions of visitors every year. Some come to learn about the Battle of Normandy, some come to pay their respects, and some are simply looking for a quiet day on the beach. No matter the reasoning behind the sojourn, this windswept coast and its stunning hamlets are sure to invoke a feeling of awe.

1. Utah Beach
Location: Pouppeville, La Madeleine.
Result: American Victory
As the westernmost landing of the five, Utah Beach saw the lightest casualties of Operation Overload. This wing of the attack, along with the Omaha Beach attack was headed by U.S. Infantry. Today, a tall, red granite obelisk overlooks these sand dunes, commemorating the achievements of the American Forces who landed there. Between the cold waters and St. Mére Eglise, sites like the Utah Beach Landing Museum and the Airborne Troops Museum recount the attacks that took place here in 1944.

2. Omaha Beach
Location: Sainte Honorine des Pertes, Vierville sur Mer
Result: American Victory

This landing zone was probably the most heavily defended beach of all, and certainly the bloodiest. The cliffs at Pointe du Hoc—where rangers once scaled the cliffs—are still pocked with shell holes. At Omaha, visitors can walk amongst fortified bunkers and long-range German guns or explore the exhibits at the Omaha Beach Memorial Museum.

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Soldiers Apraoch the Beaches of Normandy 4
3. Gold Beach
Location: Arromanches, Le Hamel, La Riviere
Result: British Victory

Just a few miles north of Bayeux, Gold Beach was the Allies' central point of invasion. British troops stormed the beaches here, coming up against a heavily armed German force. It is regarded as one of the most successful of the five missions and as one of the most violent. The famous, seven-mile long Mulberry Harbour still remains out in these cold waters, while the 360° Cinema at Arromanches regularly presents an exceptional war film entitled The Price of Freedom.

4. Juno Beach
Location: Courseulles sur Mer, Saint Aubin sur Mer and Bernieres sur Mer
Result: Canadian Victory

East of Gold Beach, the Canadian Forces came ashore at Juno Beach. In spite of fierce opposition and a seawall twice the height of that at Omaha Beach, these soldiers were able to fight through German defenses and become the only infantry to reach its D-Day objectives. The gleaming, Juno Beach Centre is located on the periphery of the beach. Through a number of state-of-the-art presentations, this museum documents the war effort made by all Canadians.

5. Sword Beach
Location: Ouistreham, Saint Aubin sur Mer, Merville
Result: British Victory

The furthest east of the landing points, Sword Beach is located about 15 km (9 mi) north of Caen. The British who blitzed this beach met with low resistance—compared to some of the other beaches—and therefore recorded a low death toll. That said, the Hermanville War Cemetery preserves the memory 1,005 men who lost their lives here. In the nearby town of Ouistreham, the Museum of the Atlantic Wall tells the story behind the Atlantic Wall defences along the Normandy coastline.

PAYING RESPECTS

Many lives were lost during the Battle of Normandy, something the cemeteries of the area will attest to. These solemn grounds are the final resting place for tens of thousands of fallen soldiers. Amongst these innumerable rows of headstones, people often pay their respects, search for answers and pray for a better future.

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American Cemetery at Omaha Beach 5
Notable Memorials
The British Cemetery at Bayeux is the largest British cemetery in French territory. 4,648 Allied and German soldiers are buried there. The German Cemetery at La Cambe contains more than 21,000 fallen German soldiers along with a fascinating exhibition on the ongoing work of the German war graves authority. On the bluffs of Omaha Beach, a beautifully kept American Cemetery extends to the east and west. This is the final resting place for nearly 10,000 U.S. soldiers.

CITIES, VILLAGES AND ACCOMMODATIONS

Normandy has seen Viking conquest and Roman towns. It was the birthplace of impressionism, and the grave for William the Conqueror, Joan of Arc and countless war heroes. In short, it has been at the heart of French and European history for centuries. Each of its historic cities tell their own tale, granting all who visit a unique perspective into their common past.

Visit Caen
As the capital and largest city of the region, Caen is an ideal base for exploring the area. Though a large part of this historic town was destroyed in the Battle for Caen, its picturesque atmosphere has since been restored. The city is only a short distance from Sword, Juno and Gold and is home to the Caen Memorial. This museum focuses on the events leading up to and after D-Day.

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Abby of Saint Etienne 6

Places to Stay in Caen
Holiday Inn operates a boutique hotel next to Caen's racecourse. The horses trotting on the track can almost be heard from any of the 88 rooms at this luxurious hotel. An attractive restaurant and bar are located on-site.

Hotel le Dauphin provides a more authentic French experience. Set in a tranquil neighbourhood, the Dauphin features the original stonework and beams of Old World France and has converted an adjoining 15th century chapel to provide extra rooms.

The Port
Located where the ship canal from the city meets the English Canal, Ouistreham acts as Caen's seaport. The area boasts large sandy beaches, a fine selection of wine and, of course, a small collection of war museums, monuments and attractions.

Places to Stay in Ouistreham
Hotel le Normandie features a handful of modest double and single rooms. A locally revered restaurant located on-site dishes out an abundance of local flavours.

Hotel de la Plage was originally built as a Norman mansion. Located near a beach and a casino, this charming hotel features individually decorated rooms that can accommodate singles, doubles and families. Guests are treated to breakfast in a spacious dining room with a veranda that opens onto a lush garden.

Visit Bayeux
Northwest of Caen, the charming city of Bayeux, with its historic buildings and narrow streets, was virtually untouched during 1944. The Battle of Normandy Museum sheds light on Bayeux's connection to the war and why the city was spared and Caen was not. Going even further back in history, the Bayeux Tapestry—one of the world's oldest complete tapestries—is on display at The Musee de la Reine Mathilde.

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An Old Neighbourhood in Bayeux 7
Places to Stay in Bayeux
At the heart of Bayeux, Grand Hotel du Luxembourg takes up residence within a grand old 17th century building that stands only steps from the town's cathedral. Guests of this luxurious hotel are treated to true French charm and tradition as they check into one of the 27 single and double rooms. Within, a gourmet restaurant serves gastronomic delights and features a sheltered courtyard garden.

Located nextdoor, Hotel de Brunville is the sister hotel of the Grand Hotel du Luxembourg. Subsequently, guests of the Branville share a parking lot and other amenities with it.

Once the British Press headquarters, Hotel le Lion d'Or dates back to the 17th century. The individually decorated rooms of this grandiose hotel range from single occupancy to family sized rooms. A lavish, on-site restaurant offers high quality French cuisine and atmosphere.

The Port
The appealing fishing port town of Port en Bessin is nestled between the cliffs found just north of Caen. Noted for the delicious scallops found there, it is also a great place to spend some time.

Places to Stay in Port en Bessin
Hotel Mercure neighbours the Omaha Beach Golf Course. This 70 room hotel boasts tennis courts and an outdoor, heated pool.

Hotel la Cheneveire is located on the outskirts of Port en Bessin. This delightful, 29 room chateau has stood for more than 150 years. It is surrounded by meticulously maintained gardens and features a heated outdoor pool, tennis courts and a plush, gourmet restaurant.


PHOTOS COURTESY OF:
  1. What Remains of the War; Normandy, France
  2. Thomas Fogg; Three Soldiers of Juno Beach; Courseulles sur Mer, Normandy, France
  3. Thomas Fogg; Long Range Gun at Omaha Beach; Colleville sur Mer, Normandy, France
  4. Soldiers Approach the Beaches of Normandy; France
  5. American Cemetery at Omaha Beach; Colleville sur Mer, Normandy, France
  6. Abby of Saint Etienne; Bayeux, Normandy, France
  7. An Old Neighbourhood in Bayeux, Normandy, France